On the Left, 9 burning questions that everyone wants to know the answer to... I guess. These are:
1 – What is a Fired Decal?
2 – What happens when a
Ceramic Decal is fired?
3 – What about food
safeness?
4 – Do you always have to
fire a Ceramic Decal?
5 – What other ways can you
use a Ceramic Decal?
6 – Can you make a Ceramic
Decal on a computer printer?
7 – What if I want to make a
Ceramic Decal?
8 – What if I want to have a
Ceramic Decal made for me?
9 – Which company do you
recommend for Open Stock Decals?
What is a Fired Decal?
A fired decal in made from
inorganic components which will not burn away in a firing. They usually consist
of powdered ground glass (which promotes melting and fusing)(aka. a “flux”) and
metallic oxide pigments and salts (for color) mixed with a liquid, oil like,
organic (or plastic) printing media suitable for silk-screen printing. After
printing the design, it is covered with a temporary plastic carrier (cover
coat). The paper which it is printed on is a porous paper with a water soluble
coating on one side. This coating consists usually of dextrin or starch which
dissolves when the decal is put in water, thus releasing the decal from the
paper so that it may be mounted. Such decals are called “water-slide decals”.
Firing
Cycle Overview
72-212° F (22-100° C)
Decal becomes soft (thermoplastic),
melting and conforming to the micro structure of the glaze.
Any water under the decal turns
to steam (1 gram of liquid water will expand to 1.25 Liters of steam).This is
the major cause of pinholes or blowouts and why we let decals dry 24 hours
before firing them.
212-480° F (100-250° C)
Not much happens. The
softened decal begins to “brittle up” in anticipation of the burn-off period.
480-800° F (250-430° C)
Organic covercoat and
printing mediums burn off. Ventilation is very important at this time to insure
that the organics are removed from within the firing chamber.
750-1063° F (400-573°
C)
Nothing much happens Only
pigment and flux powders remain (unfused) on the surface of the glaze. This is
why an under-fired decal will wipe off after firing.
1063° F +(573° C +)
Quartz Inversion
Temperature. Everything with quartz in it (which is pretty much all ceramics),
contracts and expands. At around this temperature the firing speed of the kiln
should be slowed down.
1063° F to maturity (573° C
+)
(maturity depends on the ware, not the decal)(see Firing Fundamentals link)
Vitrification
begins. Fluxes begin to transition into a glassy phase as they melt. The
glaze softens under the decal sooner due to the influence of the fluxes, and
the pigments fuse to the ware. Note: Glass decals are manufactured with lower
temperature fluxes that begin this transition much earlier than overglaze and
inglaze ceramic decals.
This is a really good
question. Practically speaking, it’s a non-issue. Most decals from the last 20
years have been using low lead color palettes. Moreover, I have never
personally heard of someone becoming ill or dead from eating off a fired decal.
They have been eating off of them for centuries.
- Technically, unless
a vendor can produce a certified toxicologist’s report indicating what the lead
and cadmium levels are, they are unknown, and because they are unknown, one
should not use that decal on food bearing surfaces.
- This is why you will often
see the following warning:
WARNING: Do not use decals
on surfaces that come in direct contact with food or drink. Some colors in
decals may contain lead and/or cadmium. Keep decals away from children unless
properly supervised.
On cups and mugs leave at
least 20mm between the top of the rim and the decal. Conforms to ASTM D-4236. Contact
physician for more health information.
- This warning is NOT
because there is a specific danger present, but because the particular decal in
question has not been tested by a toxicologist.
- This is more than a
technicality. There is no other way around it!! Lead Testing Kits are not a
legal substitution for a toxicologist’s report. Nor will firing hotter work.
Firing hotter will in fact sink the colors deeper into the glaze, but the
resulting lead and cadmium levels are still unknown. Nor will the assurances of
a decal vendor that “their designs use unleaded colors” work. Without
documentation from the color manufacturer, it is a worthless affirmation.
Moreover, if any of the colors on the palette are low lead, printing them with
unleaded colors voids the warranty (much like using unleaded glaze with low
lead glaze).
- The CPSC (Consumer Product
Safety Commission) does allow several exceptions for untested decals.
- Exterior decoration is typically A.O.K. (note the above
20mm mug requirement).
- Interior decoration is O.K. if the piece is not a food
use item (like a vase).
- Decorating the rim area of a plate is O.K. (because the
food use area is primarily in the center).
- Drilling a hole in the center of the ware so that it
cannot hold liquid allows the use of untested decals (which, of course,
everybody wants to drill a hole in their ware).
- A permanent marking on the bottom of the ware
indicating “Not for Food Use. Colors may poison food” allows the use of
untested decals. This is what the Collector Plate companies do.
- I am aware of conflicting statements from various companies. You will have to decide for yourself. I say, “don’t do it”, but not because I am fearful for your life. As said above, really it’s a non-issue. But because I know of NO ONE who is certifying their patterns via a toxicologist, I must say, “don’t do it”.
Do you always have to
fire a Ceramic Decal?
Another excellent question!
This is where many people are surprised to find out that Fired Decals make
wonderful non-fired decorations.
- The gum underneath the
decal that helps it stick to the ware before it is fired also will make that
decal stick very tenaciously to any smooth surface. How long? Indefinitely, if
there is no abrasion or moisture applied to it.
- You can apply fired decals
over candles, soap, plastic, metals, furniture, computer parts, wood, glass, vinyl,
acrylic, Plexiglas, ceramics, polished stone, laminated papers, high gloss wall
paint, mirrors, etc.
- You can also Decoupage with
any fired decal using any of the store-bought sealers (like Modge Podge), or
other sealers like polyurethane, clear brushing lacquer, or clear acrylic
(brush on or spray on). Always let things dry thoroughly between coats.
- Furthermore, fired decals
never fade in non-fired applications (altho the covercoat might discolor or
pick up dust over the years). This is where a polyurethane sealer can make them
VERY durable.
With Gold
- as a accent near the decal (and in the same firing as
when the decal is being fired)
- as a accent on
top of decal (as a 2nd firing, after the decal has been fired on first)
On top of a pre-fired
background
- air brushed background
- sponged background
- spatter brush background
- speckle-tone glaze
- other pastel gloss or satin glazes
With China Paints
(fire
decal, add china paints, fire again)
- fill out background
- connect decals
- add accents
- correct mistakes and blemishes
On Porcelain Bisque
(polish
bisque thoroughly
before mounting)
On glass that is going to
be sagged
- Opaque decals look best
- Non-Opaque decals do not look good on colored glass
(note: we are talking about using a regular ceramic decal
on sagged glass, not a glass decal. Glass decals MUST be fired at 022, whereas
sagging is done at hotter temperatures.)
(see
instructions below)
- On greenware
- On ceramic bisque
- On texture glazes
- Silk screen decals on glass fired at Cone 022
- Reversing
FIRING ON UNGLAZED SURFACES
1) - Clean greenware as
normal.
2) - Prepare a solution of ½
water and ½ white hobby glue (e.g. Elmer's glue or equal). Or, use APT-Il
Ceramic Enhancer straight out of the bottle (an excellent product).
3) - Sponge or brush on two
thin, even coats of either solution onto the area where the decal is to be
applied. Allow to dry between each coat.
4) - Apply a third coat and
put decal in water so that it will be ready to apply (see
"APPLICATION" Section).
5) - Before the third coat
is dry (i.e., while it is still a little tacky), apply decal to prepared area.
6) - Carefully blot decal
with a paper towel or cloth to remove bubbles and smooth out decal. Do not
squeegee.
7) - Allow to dry for 24
hours.
8) - Fire with your next
greenware firing (cone 04-06).
9) - Spray a matte or gloss
sealer to protect from being soiled.
Note: Because of the higher
temperature, some colors will fade significantly (usually Yellows,
Yes and No.
- Inkjet printer decals will
fire away, nevertheless, some people use them for non-fired applications or for
“comping” (decorating a sample to see how it will look). Also, because they are
printed with organic colors, they will fade with time and exposure to direct
sunlight.
- Laser Jet decals can be
fired at glaze temperatures because some of the pigments have a small amount of
an inorganic component which can withstand the heat. However, because the
colors are unfluxed (they have no powdered glass to help the glaze melt), they
will rub off if fired to overglaze temperatures. Note: the resulting
glaze-fired decal isusually gray or sepia in color with muted edges.
- There IS a specialty
copier made in
- In all cases, a specialty
paper must be used, and in all cases, a method of covercoating the decal must
be used (like silk-screening or spraying on acrylic sealer).
You will need 2 things: An
understanding of how to do silk-screen printing, and, access to decal paper,
printing media, overglaze colors, and a covercoat media. Frankly, unless you
want to go into the business or if you are already a silk-screener who wants to
experiment, put it out of your mind. It’s more trouble than it’s worth.
- A good beginner’s book for
silk-screen printing is “Elementary Silk
Screen Printing” by ALBERT KOSLOFF.
- Suppliers for decal
components may be found on the internet. Do searches under “overglaze, ceramic,
decals, covercoat, colors, printing” in various combinations.
3 things will determine your
price:
1) Size of the design
2) The number of colors
required to duplicate your artwork
3) The quantity to be
printed (see Powers of Ten to the right)
These 3 factors make up what
is called the “Price Matrix”. All printers have their own Price Matrix,
sometimes published, sometimes unpublished.
- You will typically need to
send them the original art, or, a computer scan on CD (300 dpi; TIFF format or
as otherwise requested) to get a precise price. Often you will get hit with art
charges or proofing charges (So camera ready art saves you money).
- There are at least a dozen
domestic printers out there who specialize in fired decals. Find them on the
internet, or look for their ads in Fired Arts and Crafts magazine.
INSTAR, of course. They do
all things well. Go to instardecals.com and enjoy. PS – They are also pretty price
competitive on Custom Decals if you need more than 1000 pieces (for
under 200 pieces, stay with the above mentioned domestic printers). And because
they import from mostly European Manufacturers, their quality is best of the best
as well.
Powers of
10
Rule #1 -
Pricing and Delivery are a function of Quantity
Translated:
How much you order in a single order will affect how much you will pay and how
long it will take to get your decals. Interestingly, this may be broken into 6
groups based on powers of 10.
Hobbyist
Level
Keyword:
Flexibility
Typical
Quantity: 1 to 9 decals
(Open Stock designs only)
Uses:
Special project; experimentation; fun; personal use; (sample piece for test
marketing)
Pricing:
Delivery: 1
to 2 days upon receipt of order
Small
Business Level
Keyword:
Business Account
Typical
Quantity: 10 to 99 decals
(Open Stock designs only)
Uses:
Regular repeat customer wanting to maintain inventory control by frequent
ordering
Pricing:
Delivery: 1
to 2 days upon receipt of order
Small
Manufacturer Level
Keyword:
Discount
Typical
Quantity: 100 to 999 decals
(Open Stock or Custom designs)
Uses:
Allows a manufacturer to order smaller quantities in order to keep finished
ware inventory at optimum efficiency; extra discounts may be available if decal vendor is allowed a longer
lead time to deliver a decal order (this depends on the decal manufacturer of a
particular design AND the size of the order); partial shipping of negotiated
purchase orders.
Pricing:
Delivery: 1
to 2 days upon receipt of order, or, 2 to 3 weeks upon receipt of order
Custom
Decal Level
Keyword:
Exclusivity
Quantity:
1000 or more pieces of a
particular size of a pattern
Uses:
Allows a manufacturer to have copyrighted exclusivity for a new design, or,
allows a manufacturer exclusivity to a specially designed size of an existing pattern;
substantially reduced prices on any size of an existing patterns if the order
is placed prior to next printing of that pattern.
Pricing:
Negotiated
Delivery: 4
to 6 weeks
Large
Manufacturer Level
Keyword:
Quantity
Quantity:
10,000 or more pieces of a
particular size of a pattern
Uses: To
obtain best prices on an Open Stock design; to obtain better prices on Custom
Printed designs; partial shipping of negotiated purchase orders.
Pricing:
Negotiated
Delivery:
Call for verification of inventory on hand vs. inventory set for next printing
Mass
Producer Level
Keyword:
Expedited
Quantity:
100,000 or more pieces of a
particular size of a pattern
Uses:
Custom order of an exclusive design for large scale production
Pricing:
Negotiated
Delivery:
“Best Way” - Typically drop-shipped from factory, or, landed at the
manufacturers agent and re-sent by common carrier.
Open Stock
Decals
"Open
Stock" is a term used to describe decals that are already printed from
which you buy as many or as few as needed.
Custom
Decals
This is a
decal that has been printed just for you.
Expedited
Decals
This more
indicates the supply chain status of a pattern than it does the kind of decal.
Expedited Decals are always Custom and in large quantities.
Glass
Decals
A decal
that is meant to fuse and mature at Cone 022. Aka. Low Fire Decals
Uses:
Fired decoration of glassware
- Fire at Cone 022 on soda-lime
glass (most glassware)
- Fire at Cone 021 on borosilicate
glass (cooking ware, e.g. Pyrex)
Fired
decoration of ceramics,
porcelain, and enameled metal
- Fire at Cone 022 on any surface
that can withstand 1040°F
Non-Fired
decoration of any hard
or firm surface
- Can be sealed with a clear finish
such a lacquer or acrylic.
- Doesn’t need to be sealed if
surface is especially smooth.
- Also can be used on candles and
soap.
A newer
type of decal that is not meant to be fired. It is made from organic, lead-
free colors. Similar to Dye-Sublimation Decals except it is water-mounted and
is air cured. Aka. Kitchen Oven Decals; Low Temperature Decals
Uses:
Non-Fired
decoration of any hard
or firm surface
- May be left intact on decorated
surface
- May have cover-coat peeled off
after drying 24 hours
- May be fused at low temperatures
(300°F for 20 minutes)
- Dishwasher Safe, but will scratch
and fade over time
Decals made
from overglaze colors (China Paints) Aka.
Water-mount overglaze transfers, Fired Decals
Uses:
Fired
decoration of ceramics and
porcelain.
- Fire at Cone 017 to 018 on Hobby
Ceramics and Terra Cotta.
- Fire at Cone 015 to 016 on
Stoneware and Decorative
Non-Fired
decoration of any hard
or firm surface
- Can be sealed with a clear finish
such a lacquer or acrylic.
- Doesn’t need to be sealed if
surface is especially smooth.
- Also included are candles and
soap.
- “One Fire” decorating of glass
that is being slumped at Cone 016 or 015 (Just apply decal onto ware to be
slumped, let dry for 24 hours, and slump)
Heat
Release Decals
Specially
made ceramic decals that are meant to be machine mounted.
Uses:
For
production manufacturing using specialized equipment / Custom designs only
Inglaze
Decals
Decals
printed using Underglaze Colors.
Uses:
For
decorating ware at glaze
temperatures.
